Under the Henfluence

December 12, 2022
Journalist Danovich debuts with a heartfelt account of raising pet hens. After spotting a chicken coop in a Brooklyn front yard, Danovich was inspired to adopt her own upon moving to Portland, Ore., where she acquired Peggy, Joan, and Betty (named after the Mad Men characters). Chickens “can change your life if you let them,” she suggests, enumerating the benefits of keeping the pets and offering detailed portraits of hers: Peggy “was the bravest in the bunch” and Joan was deferential while Betty preferred “comfort over exploration.” Danovich grew her flock after suffering losses, including Betty’s death by one of Danovich’s dogs, which the author recounts with grief and guilt. She weaves in a powerful indictment of the poultry industry’s practice of confining chickens to tiny cages, and tells of how she rescued from an egg farm two adult chickens who had been so poorly treated they had to learn such fundamental behaviors as foraging and taking dust baths. Danovich’s commitment to her pets endears and provides an intimate look at animals more often thought of as food than friends (“They weren’t just any someones—they were individuals with a place in both the flock and in my life that would be irreplaceable”). Anyone who’s mulled the possibility of setting up a backyard coop will find this the next best thing.

Starred review from June 10, 2024

Journalist Danovich leaves New York City for the suburban utopia of Portland, OR, and the move rekindles a long-held desire to raise chickens. Reading her own story with emotion and conviction, Danovich describes how charmed she was when her first three chicks--each with its own personality and voice--arrived via the U.S. Post Office. While chronicling her journey raising backyard chickens, Danovich delves into the history of chickens on the family farm. She visits the site in Iowa where her chicks were hatched, uncovers the story of wild chickens in Hawai'i, discusses the role of chickens as pets, and explores the culture surrounding show chickens. Danovich interviews farmers, hobbyists, and industrial chicken hatchery personnel. She highlights the plight of roosters, a largely unwanted bird, and discovers that veterinary care for chickens is scarce, and she notes that a poor economy correlates with a rise in chicken keeping, as was especially evident with the COVID pandemic. VERDICT An informative and enjoyable listen, interweaving Danovich's personal experiences with entertaining details about historical and current issues in the world of chickens.--Joanna M. Burkhardt

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